The Epicurean Table - Blog Bytes

More soup - French Onion!

2008-01-14T19:33:00.001+01:00

All that talk this morning about a good old fashioned French Onion Soup got my tastebuds tingling. The few ingredients necessary are staples in most cooks' kitchens. Well, I may not always have beef broth on hand, but this time I did. Even had a little white wine left over and there is always a cognac on the 'butler's tray' somewhere between my liquor collection.

Let me brag and say it was soooo good! Even my normally non-plused husband raved that it was even better than from the French owned restaurant at the local port we were at recently. It could be that they save on the cognac...they definately did use white wine though. Me, I 'do' both. That is how I was introduced to a 'real' French Onion Soup and learned it in Belgium.

What I don't like about some restaurant's versions is when the bread under the Gruyère cheese is soggy and a bit insipid. This is because the bread slices are not toasted enough, or (horrors) not at all. A very amateur mistake, I am told. The 1 cm (half inch) slices are toasted in the oven until they are like croutons...dark golden and very crisped. They go in the bowl first...then the soup is ladled over. One urges most of the onion slices off then comes a generous amount of grated (or very thin slices) of Gruyère cheese (yes, you can cheat with a good Emmentaler too) before settung under a grill to melt and bubble.

A trick I learned is to dip the slices in a little garlic olive oil (a little fresh minced in a tablespoon of oil will do) THEN you toast them. If I am using already day old bread, then a serious rub with garlic before dipping will do it also. The slight amount of garlic is not noticeable, but certainly adds to the flavour dimension.

Not all recipes for this soup mention the garlic trick...I suspect those versions are from the Provence, where garlic is used more than the more northerly areas in France. I also add one sliced garlic clove to the onions as they slowly cook in the butter.

Oh yes...and the onions must be in thin half rings and cooked in the butter until light brown, just starting to caramelize. It makes a huge difference in the flavour of this wonderful peasant soup.

Peasant food, or as known by the Americans from the southern states 'po' folks food' is frugal and practical...using whatever is commonly at hand. OOOOooo...soooooooo good!

Soup, soup, soup!

2008-01-14T08:29:00.000+01:00

Can't get enough of it lately. Soup as a light meal, soup as a first course...it seems once cooler weather sets in here, I loose my interest in leafy salads. In fact, they put me off. I listen to my tastebuds and what my body wants. Cooler weather definately means soup for me...with only the occasional yearning for a leafy, mixed salad as a starter. Like the other day. Rucula salad with balsamico and shavings of parmesan cheese was on a menu and my tastebuds said 'YES'! And we did and we enjoyed.

But back to soups. My Polish Grandmother couldn't fathom a main meal without a soup! Nor can the Czech or Russian friends of mine. It's a cultural thing. The soup shown here is just a simple beef broth with fresh homemade noodles...which is why it is not so clear. And the soup was steaming which is why I can't get it very sharp. No matter. You get the picture (oh dear, excuse the pun!).

I've been making a few of my vegetable soups with a base made from the saved and frozen scraps left over from preparing vegetables. But perhaps that is worthy of another article for my Food Bytes section.

Soup of the Day today? Hmmm....don't know yet. I'll find out when it's time to prepare lunch (for us the main meal of the day, around 2 pm). I've got a beef stock waiting its turn....lot's of onions too...Gruyère....hmmm....French Onion Soup?

World's most expensive dessert - a serendipity?

2007-12-01T22:39:00.000+01:00

Decadence seems to be on the tip of my tongue lately.

Believe me...I am not one to rejoice over another's misfortune - it's just not my nature, but I simply could not help a snigger and a thought about justice over this one. Just days after the New York eatery Serendipty 3 introduced their $25,000 Frozen Haute Chocolate dessert with much PR and fanfare, they fail not only miserably one inspection but two within one month and had to close.

Is it just me, or is there something wrong here about luxury food + 'insane' prices? I didn't read anything about this dessert being auctioned off for a good cause...that would justify such a price. It's the rich person's version of a Dairy Queen Sundae and you get to keep the cup and the plastic spoon...only this time the spoon is gold.

Just think of it. $25,000 for a fancy chocolate icecream sundae made in a kitchen with resident rodents, roaches and other revolting 'things'. Sick. Sick. Sick. You know, there is but a fine line between the rich and the decadent rich.

Whoever ordered it, certainly deserved their just desserts.

(I promise no more rants for a while ;>)

Truffle Decadence

2007-12-01T21:36:00.000+01:00

What is it about truffles that remind me of The Emperor's Clothes or Bad 'Art' being sold for ridiculously astronomical prices because...hmmm...because Art Critics make huge commissions and paybacks, tell US that yes indeed, the freeze dried pile of Dog Poo is indeed Art - and aren't we just stupid for not 'understanding' art?

Oh yes and let's not forget the 'message'. The statement the artist is trying to make. One day I will write about conversations I had with a famous sculptor in Germany and his take on art, art critcs and gullible public. Yes, laughter is healthy for you, especially all the way to the bank with fat checks in your hand.

So, what has this to do with the truffle? Well, I know I am not alone with my stance of 'what IS the big deal?' Yes, I have sampled white, black...in France, in Italy and I can only tell you that it - for me - does not justify all the excitement and certainly not the price. Yes, yes...I know, we are supposed to cheer and rave the truffle (because aren't we supposed to?) because the culinary In Crowd has deemed it so. Me, I jig to another tune. I also don't care much for Beaujolais nouveau either. Shocking, I know. It's a short season, everyone gets excited and frankly, I'd rather have water. I also don't follow fashion dictates unless I DO like something. But I digress.

Read this Truffle Sold For $277,000 (143,000 Euros) or this one as of this morning that sold for $330,000. Read here my 'truffle review' (scroll down about mid-page). I am convinced that if they weren't so difficult to find and were easy to cultivate, there would be hardly any interest in them because they wouldn't cost much more than a champignon.

It's all about marketing. And decadence in the case of truffles. Personally, I find it disgusting that more than a quarter million dollars was paid for lump of truffle weighing about as much as a chihuahua.

Let's see now. How many starving people could be fed for that? How much rice would that buy? Ummm, oh yes...and the buyer who was so willing to pay that money for a mushroom...would they give that same amount to the neighborhood needy? One could certainly open a Soup Kitchen and run it for several months on that. I can't help but wonder.

And the Emperor? He had no clothes on. He was publically naked. Just like the truth of decadently priced 'luxury foods'. Shameful and embarrassing.

Zwiebelkuchen - Onion Savoury Tart or Keesh it Not

2007-09-18T19:06:00.000+02:00

Although it is certainly warmer here in Spain than back in Germany, around the mid of September - for me - it is Autumn. And certain specialities come to mind and palate.

My special order of German wine came in with friends driving down from Germany - whose son-in-law is a wine dealer - oh lucky me! Looking at those lovely bottles of fabulous Rhein and Mosel wines...my palate decided lunch - a really traditional autumn/winter fare - Zwiebelkuchen.

Usually served with 'Federweisser' (Feather White) wine - a very young wine, still cloudy, it can be served with any medium dry white German wine.

What is the difference between a quiche and Zwiebelkuchen? A few split hairs and a good measure of regional pride. First there was Zwiebelkuchen...then came quiche. Yes.

Optically, the quiche is thicker, almost always baked in a deep, round pan and can be an end combination of many things held together by an egg/cream mass...and cheese often plays an important role.

Zwiebelkuchen...is lots of onion, eggs, cream (of some sort, sour, crème fraîche etc.), bacon or bits from a lightly smoked slab of pork belly and that is it. No herbs, seasoning often nutmeg and/or whole caraway seeds, salt-pepper. Nothing pretentious, no fluff or snobbery. Which reminds me, it is absolutely sacrelegious to use puff pastry. Please don't (wince).

The traditional base is a bread yeast dough although some swear by a baking powder raised one. I can tell you those cooks are not from the Pfalz or Rhein-Hessen region. And though smaller amounts can be baked in a round pan, it is more often baked on a deep sheet. However way you do it, please...it's not quiche. Call it rather - Onion Tart if 'ZTVEE-bell-koohjn is unpronouncable for you (that 'hj' is a bit like, hmmm, let me see - think hissing cat and it will be close).

Recipies vary as to a few eggs more or less, more cream or not or technique such as pouring over the egg mass on the onions or mixing them with the mass before pouring onto the dough. This part is personal preference.

What matters is the right wine, cooler weather and friends to share it all with!

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related article on Zee Keesh! or The Quiche and I where you will find more info.

Ravioli - Pumpkin and Walnut Pasta Pillows in Sage Butter

2007-09-18T17:07:00.000+02:00

I get in the mood for certain foods and when the thought knaws on my palate long enough, then I simply must make them.

So it was yesterday with my 'very large' raviolis filled with a mix of pumpkin, onion and walnut - toasted and finely chopped of course. I had to make them. The sage leaves are crisped in the butter, just as it turns tan - then the cooked raviolis are 'turned' in the butter gently and served on warm plates. And these too, I will have up on the Recipe Collection.

I served these as a main course with steamed, fine green beans, tossed with a little butter. The first course was chicken broth with lots of parsley and a little meat...but it can just as well have been a salad. It just so happened that I had made the chicken stock the day before...to nurse my cold.

These can also be served as a first course...just one sitting in a lovely broth garnished with herbs such as chive or lightly sautéed spring onion diagonally sliced.

My mother loved them - especially the crispy sage leaves. They are delicious!

Salmon Trout with Rosti

2007-08-12T22:29:00.000+02:00

One of my very favourite fish is the salmon trout (belongs to the rainbow trout family, I think). A little smaller than the salmon and much bigger than a trout, it is neither one or the other but seems to have the best qualities of the two. A delicious, delicate flavour with the fine texture of trout.

This time I served the filets with rosti (a kind of Swiss potato patty - very simple) topped with sour cream (or creme fraiche or smand). For eye apeal to compliment the colours of the dish, I chose steamed cauliflower florets tossed with fresh spinach, lightly sweated in melted butter.

The secret to serving meltingly succulent fish filets is to never overcook them and like pasta, always serve on well warmed plates.

I used a generous amount of melted butter and coconut oil (a wonderful flavour combination) to which I added a small garlic clove. The filets were lightly seasoned with a little herbal salt and a grating of mixed pepper - no lemon this time.

Over medium heat, cook the fish on the skin side until the thinner edges begin to change colour. This will take about 3-4 minutes. Use two spatulas to turn over, wait a few seconds then turn the heat off. Leave them while you arrange the rosti on very warm plates and keep in the oven. Have the spinach sweating while you do this. When the spinich is wilted, add the cauliflower and bit of butter and toss. Using two spatulas, place the fish on the plate, then the cauliflower. Top the rosti with the sour cream, garnish all with chopped chive and serve immediately.

A Grauburgunder white wine goes well with salmon trout as does a good medium dry Champagne.

I think we'll have a repeat of this next week...it was sooo good!

Summer Dessert - French Berry Galette

2007-08-12T22:04:00.001+02:00

Summer berries in any combination or alone make a wonderful, light dessert. I served this simple, typically French way of serving fruit in a pastry casing...it was the dessert, although served a few hours later for tea time, to the Salmon Trout lunch.

A galette is a flat, rustic 'pie or tart' without the pan and with as many variations as there are regions in France. Though often filled with fruits of the season, they can be savoury as well.

The first photo is just before popping into the oven and the second the finished tart (I used spelt flour, by the way).

There is nothing to this dessert, really. Just a plain pastry

sweetened with a just a little sugar, a good amount of butter and a

little Triple Sec (or Gran Marnier) mixed with the chilled water. The berries were a combination of blackberries and blueberries, garnished with a few sprigs of red currents.

I gently tossed the berries in a little vanilla sugar and potato starch (corn starch will do as well). It is late here, so I hope to have the recipe up tomorrow.

This small tart went in one sitting. So light and soooo delicious!

Marrons Glacé - crystallized chestnut decadence

2007-01-06T17:56:00.000+01:00

Chestnuts are one of those things that I always associate with street vendors selling their aromatic wares. Holding a newspaper cone of them...just the memory of them while I type brings back the scent of them, roasted over a small open fire. And the warmth they give the fingers as you peel them.

I love them.

Another favourite way to consume them - a decadent one - is candied. Glazed chestnuts* are one thing, but Marrons Glacé (crystallized chestnuts) is quite another. The former is done rather quickly and the later takes a few days of tender loving care. And a good recipe.

I adore them.

So does a visitor to my site, who having located this classic recipe through a search engine was kind enough to report back on his success and has allowed me to use a photo of his Marrons Glacé. A big thanks and a round of applause goes to you, Robert!

For many years my family has enjoyed Marrons Glacé - but only at Christmas and only in small quantities because they were so darned expensive. This recipe produces a wonderful result and we can now indulge to our hearts content, smug in the knowledge that they are home produced and at little cost."
Robert Ornbo

Home produced, with that magic ingredient love and time. Bravo Robert!

(Robert, if you read this please contact me. I have something for you!)

note: Although glazed chestnuts is the term often used to describe candied or crystallized chestnuts, the procedure is much different. Glazed chestnuts are often used for savoury dishes as an accompaniment, much like glazed carrots...a process that is not as involved as crystallized chestnuts and results in a different product.

January Update

2007-01-05T19:20:00.000+01:00

Oh, have I been negligent of this blog! Shame on me. Well, it's surely not because I've been lazy...on the contrary. It's been a very busy past 6 months.

Since a few weeks now, I have been searching for a solution to help me send out my newsletter. In the past I sent out each email manually. Now there are so many subscribers (hurray!) that it took me several hours of precious time I really didn't have. And frankly, with that daunting task before me, I felt guilty about updating and being able to 'get around to manually sending alllll those emails'.

So a solution had to be found. I hope the system I found is as good as the reviews have said. So far I am impressed. Today I sent out my first newsletter through them. I hope it works...it took me days and hours to manually upload each address with all the information (what day signed up, first name, last name...etc) AND get used to their system.

If it works, I'll be freed up to concentrate on content. And this blog!

Have a look around the site, there are new articles, recipes, home page's What's in Season has been updated as well as a new recipe of the week. The syndicated service I subscribed to has been so unreliable...and still no answer to my emails.

And yes that is a recent photo of me on the home page...taken at my Christmas party.

Have a fabulous new year, everyone!

Whole Hazelnut Cookies (Haselnusstaler)

2006-11-05T12:31:00.000+01:00

I love these typical German bakery shop cookies. The original name really translates to 'Hazelnut Coins' - a taler was a coin in use generations ago in Germany, much like a shilling or quid was in Great Britan...but I suppose in English there is no better term for them, although for me they are not 'really' cookies any more than a 'bar' of something is. But...oh well...they are what they are and they are delicious!

In the shops they are usual about the size of an average palm. Eating one really is enough. I made mine smaller and used a glass to cut them out of the dough.

They are my mother's most favourite too, I found out years ago. I've been wanting to surprise her with them for weeks. But everytime I buy the hazelnuts, I end up reducing them down because I snack on them. And you do need a good amount just to make a mere dozen.

In the top photo you can see they start out as from a rolled out dough - just a common sweet 1-2-3 one (1part sugar, 2 parts REAL butter, 3 parts flour) a pinch of salt and a little vainilla sugar and half an egg (because my 1 part was only 50 g. of sugar). Anyway, I had designs for the second half - that went into the first course for lunch of a broth.

Anyway, the cut out rounds are baked at 200°C until they are light brown and when cooled melted dark chocolate is spread on them. When slightly cool, the nuts are added and when all are cool, a quick caramel of sugar with a little lemon juice is drizzled over them.

They are not complicated to make but take time as besides the dough itself (the only part you can do in advance because it must rest in the refrigerator - even up to a day or be frozen), nothing can be done in advance but proceeds as one step after another. You just can't melt chocolate and keep it warm for long nor can you make caramel in advance - you make that just before you need to drizzle it.

Oh, but are they a delicious, not too sweet treat! The happy surprised look in my mother's face was soooooooo worth the effort!

Etli Bamya (Okra and Lamb) - More Memories of Turkey

2006-10-17T23:55:00.000+02:00

I really miss Turkish cuisine. And one of the dishes I have particularly been yearning for is Etli Bamya. Nearly impossible to get here in Spain, okra is the main star of this dish.

This past weekend, we spent two nights in Valencia for my birthday where I located, quite by accident a large Indian supermarket next to a nothing-to-get-excited-about Indian restaurant. And there was fresh okra...already in its future incarnation as Okra and Lamb, to my mind.

Turkish cooking is fabulous in its simplicity of flavouring/seasoning of its dishes, yet it is a cuisine known for its rich flavours. It is afterall, one of the three great world cuisines (Chinese, Ottoman Turkish and French).

Few and rather selectively are herbs or spices used. It is the quality of the ingredients of the dishes that are highlighted and appreciated. Butter is used for cooking and olive oil for the cold 'salad' dishes. Lemon, tomato or small pieces of meat - almost always lamb, seldom chicken unless it is featured on its own - may be but a few of the common 'seasoning'.

The 'seasoning' in this dish is the fresh tomato and the lemon juice it is cooked with. And I add just a sprinkle of salt near the end. I made mine with more lamb than is normally used. Usually it is considered a vegetable dish flavoured with some lamb. It is eaten - as are many dishes - with bread only.

I was slightly amazed as my usually suspicious husband - who will use any excuse to avoid eating much vegetables at all - ate everything. Appetizer to main dish. And wiped the dish clean with the bread. Check back here in a fews days for links to the recipe.

I'll be visiting Valencia again soon for more okra. This time I plan to string up a quantity and dry them. When I couldn't get okra fresh, that is how I bought them from the Turkish food markets in Germany. One just cooked them longer in the broth before adding to the rest.

Life is grand. I now can get okra in Spain. :>D

Lunch with Stuffed Tomato et al

2006-10-17T23:30:00.000+02:00

Stuffed tomato...another one of those ubiquitious entities that can be banally boring or deliciously delectable. In my case, I suddenly had to have one. Spinach Florintine was to be the first course to another Turkish dish of okra and lamb (Etli Bamya) I had been yearning for since years (literally) ...although, not the ideal choice. But not having all the other goodies on hand for a decent Turkish first course of appetizers...I made do.

"Right. Ok, toss the rest of that bit of rice into the lamb broth (that was for the okra dish) , hull out two tomaotes, get them going under the grill. Get the spinach going. Sautéed with onion in butter." Humm, humm, humm all the while the okra and lamb dish is going.

Some of the rice I seasoned a little with dried dill and the usual and the rest went into the spinach. Just the yolk was topped with a little butter and the grill did the rest. Eggwhite was rescued for another event. Who knows?

So how did it do as a first course to the Etli Bamya? It did do well!

Check back here in a few days for the link to the recipe.

Garlic Soup - Opening the Season

2006-10-03T22:08:00.000+02:00

Today was another perfect day - not too warm, yet with an intermittant breeze to hint at cooler-to-come Autumn weather. But when summer is past tense and I have the sudden inspiration for my Toasted G arlic Soup Provençal , then for me that signifies an official seasonal change. I just don't feel like it in summer. Nope, that's gazpacho time. You will note that my last entry about my garlic soup was in May. That was 'end of the past season time'. From then on it slipped over to summer fare. And different things to do with garlic. Like ailioli.

Reggie and I always have two bowls of garlic soup before on to the main. It is definately a two bowl soup, although one IS enough. Second course today was sole cooked in a little butter and olive oil served with millet and also a side of broad green beans with fine half rings of sweet onion and a little winter savoury.

Made for a fine meal. Flies thought so too. Unfortunetly, now is the fly season and if you just THINK seafood out on the terrace, it seems swarms of them start gathering for the feast. But I outfoxed them. I deboned the fish, left those bits in the pan as bait at the far end of the table and we were more or less left alone. The few clever ones not interested in fish head et al were deterred by my home made repellant I made up with essential oils.

It worked. But we decided next time we have fish or seafood, we are definately dining inside where we are hardly bothered and don't have to fox the flies.

Autumn Fare

2006-10-01T23:33:00.000+02:00

I love Autumn. I love the colours, the change in the air and the change on the table. I look forward to the dishes made of pumpkin, I anticipate the porcini season and cuddling into a warm bed. Days are still warmish here and the nights just right. I sit here now almost at midnight in short sleeves and shorts, window open. But you can feel the season has changed. Sun comes up later, goes down earlier...I go barefooted less. There may be one more fling of a warm period, a week or so then....boom! Its sweaters, socks, blankets! A welcome change from our very hot summer.

The October menu is up. Here's a hint: first course is Spicy Pumpkin-Coriander Soup, garanteed to put a smile on your face.

And me...what happened that I neglected this blog and the site since beginning of summer? Well, a computer glitch at first. Then just not having it back! The only fellow I trust to work on it picked it up, as usual and took it home over the weekend. But then he has an accident on the way back from Barcelona from visiting his girl friend. Hospital - 6 weeks, then several more at home before he can even think about working. And so the summer went.

Then two unexpected visits long over due - 6 years since the last time for either. That always throws things off, but it was a lovely time together.

Well, as you see I have my beast back...and I am still catching up on lost time and work.

I need a secretary/clone to do my work for me. And keep my desk cleared. I must be dreaming.

Sigh. One day I will figure out why I am doing all this :>D

Back to the roots

2006-05-22T23:42:00.000+02:00

With my aunt here visiting from Germany (she's staying with Mama), Mama is trying to cater a bit to her (food) tastes and also make it a little easy on her. While I was toodling about with Auntie, taking her here and there Mama called on the mobile - what about Sauerkraut, Kartoffeln und Wurst for lunch...all of us together?

Hey! I love Mama's Sauerkraut - it is the best - and sausages I hadn't had in ages. Potatoes of course can't go missing with this dinner either. So there it was waiting for us at the back terrace, a nice old fashioned dinner, one I hadn't had in ages. Auntie and Mama had the obligatory beer with this dinner and my husband and I our wine (I can't stand beer).

One of these days I am going to have to get Mama to tell me her recipe rather than me being on the recieving end of a small pot of it and I will post it for the site or here for all posterity.

I felt so good after this meal. Was it just being all together, Mama's great sauerkraut, the treat of real German sausages, the wind in the pines, the lively chatter? Or was it that flashback connection to childhood?

Whatever it was today, it was a little bit of nostalgia. Edible memories.

Garlic Soup - Keeping the Vampires Away

2006-05-15T23:23:00.000+02:00

My tastebuds have been pestering me for days to "pleasepleaseplease can we have garlic soup again". Now that I know will put a big smile on Reggie's face.

Sopa de Ajo, as it is called here in Spain is made all over the Iberian Peninsula with very little regional variations. Except in fancy restaurants. Or at Villa Contessa - my place under the Spanish sun. All you need is a broth, preferably chicken, paprika, (at least) day old bread, olive oil and lots of garlic and any peasant was happy. The magic of this simple soup is in the hands of the cook. It can be as boring as dishwater like we have experienced in a few restaurants or simply exciting. Reggie thinks my garlic soup is exciting and ah...well, not to feign modesty, my Toasted G arlic Soup Provençal is really REALLY tasty.

My little bit of magic is that I'm not particularly loyal to neither the Spanish nor French Provencel classics. A little inspiration from both, yes. And a good splash of red wine and let's not forget the thyme. The secret to that super quick, super nourishing soup, believe it or not is the ONE spice clove and the red wine. Sherry will do it fine too. Yes, besides the 8 (big) garlic cloves, ONE spice clove. Eyebrows down, now. :>D If you have 'problems' with garlic, most likely you won't with this soup. The secret is toasting them first with the almonds.

Oh and it was just what we needed today...that, a loaf of bread, red wine, sigh. Smiles all around, even my dog, Tosca asks for more!

Almost forgot, second course was a quick vegetable dish of a few leaves of savoy cabbage, French green beans, leek dish, a few potatoes (with a few other little secrets) followed by very thin lamb medallions tossed in olive oil, thyme and grated pepper. The potatoes I lifted out of the vegetables and kept them warm for serving with the lamb. Took less than 3 minutes to sear them in a hot pan to which I added a few spoons of my homemade tomato sauce.

I, like the Spanish, Italians and a few other cultures like eating in courses - one focuses and appreciates the flavour of each dish. An epicurean thing, I suppose. Besides, then I am sure Reggie will eat more than a forkfull of vegetables.

My tastebuds always remind me when I've neglected something special. Or maybe my tastebuds listen to my body's needs?

No matter. I always listen to them both. Besides, the soup works. No vampires around here!

(Try my soup soon - and comment back here and let me know!)

Stuffed Aubergine (Eggplant - Memories of Turkey

2006-05-13T23:26:00.000+02:00

Eggplant, onions, tomatoes - all that and more is the Mediterranean - but it's what a culture does with those basic ingredients that make all the difference in this part of the world.

I DO enjoy Turkish food. And I miss Turkey, so at the moment the closest I can get is to make my own. One of my favourite dishes is the classic Imam Bayildi (or roughly translated - the 'imam fainted' because it was so delicious). It is simple enough to make but I cheated and put in just a little ground lamb in this otherwise vegetarian dish.

Do they look like aubergine halves? No, they are whole aubergines but after frying a little, one of the strips (one peels away a few) is slit halfway through, spread open a little and filled. These in the photo are ready to be popped into the oven, after the lemon water gets added.

It's all explained here in the recipe. If you've never been to that part of the site (Turkish or Spanish) don't be shocked. It's never been 'conformed' into the look of the main site. Bright, isn't it? I'll get to that too at one point.

Though these are often served as an appetizer (purist style - without the meat) they are enough for me as a main. So I normally serve a bulgar pilaf or rice with these. But today it was parboiled new russet potatoes that finished baking with the aubergines.

I also had lovely, slender greenbeans. Tastebuds said lemon zest and mint would be perfect and harmonize with the rest of the flavours. They were right, it was and did.

My tastebuds always win. ;>D

Bulgur Question - How to Make It

2006-05-11T21:37:00.002+02:00

Today I received a good question: how to make bulgur (bulghur) yourself? Not, what's the recipe for _____(fill in blank) using bulgur, but how to make it at home.

Hmmm...I have an article on my site about cracked wheat and bulgur with lots of information, but it doesn't address making it yourself. So after drawing on the bits of info under cobwebs at the back of my brain and consulting various books I have - I wrote another article. This one addresses the question and more. Like what are wheat berries? Once you know that, you know...you'll sleep much better tonight. ;>)

My husband says what makes HIM sleep better at night, is something simple and old fashioned - the poached egg on toast I make for him in the late evening.

What helps ME sleep better at night? Knowing I've done something useful...for someone else or for me (like the long wandering about I did today in the fields enjoying the spring bounty and hanging out with the poppies).

Hmmm...or maybe its the hot oatmilk with the occasional...err...splash of rum? ;>D

Vanilla - the Secret Ingredient

2006-05-11T00:17:00.000+02:00

The vanilla bean (a pod, really) is definitely one of those flavourings that speak to all the senses. It intrigues the nose and tastebuds, is included in many perfumes, it is exciting, tantalizing, sultry. Simply sensual. And orchids are my favourite flower anyway.

And it is often the secret ingredient in fine foods. Vanilla lifts when used in savoury dishes, deepens and intensifies chocolate, gives coffee another dimension and is the base flavour used in almost all bakery goods.

The first time I had a memorable moment was unexpectedly in a delicate sauce for a fish and seafood dish in Belgium. Since then, I've been pleasantly surprised with its subtle presence in a sauce with pork filet or even a beef stew with the most exquisite sauce that also had cognac in it or Lobster with a vanilla beurre blanc sauce. Food for the god(esses).

My own versatile Vanomon Sauce is one I use sometimes in one variation or another and it always intrigues my newer guests. Little do they know I really am incorporating it for me, I love it!

I've also written an article at the Epicurean Digest here on vanilla.

But the bean is difficult to find here where I live in Spain. And quality is always a problem. I am happy to share with you an excellent source for the finest quality, truly gourmet vanilla products from Madagascar. They have an amazing array - this is a must visit site: The Vanilla Shop. Enjoy!

Keeping Warm Yoghurt from Parting Wheys

2006-05-09T00:15:00.000+02:00

You'll have to pardon the pun in the title, but if you ever tried to warm yoghurt, stir it into something hot or make a warm yoghurt sauce, you will appreciate what I mean. Yoghurt notoriously separates when warmed just that one degree more than what it feels comfortable about.

Yoghurt, the lesser of the two caloric evils when wheying...er...weighing it's value against creme fraiche curdles when stirred into a hot soup, separates when trying to warm it enough to use with hot foods. Even topped over meat, such as lamb or chicken and baked, well, less than satisfying.

But, I have my wheys...sorry, veys...er ways. I borrow a trick from Indian cooking and stir in a teaspoon or so of flour into about a 250 ml. cup of yoghurt. That gets stirred into the hot whatever and you can keep it just under the simmer or even forget a moment and it will NOT separate.

So, you can make a nice, quick, warm yoghurt sauce for vegetables such as asparagus or any other vegetable you may want to dip it into - broccoli, carrot, cauliflower and on baked potato? Ummm, yes! Just season as you like...a little lemon juice, chives, a little melted butter or olive oil. Stir fresh chopped dill into it or other favourite combination. Or garlic. Make it spicy with a little favourite 'heat' such as harissa, sambal olek. Use it with salmon.

And me? All of the above - not because I am concerned about calories but because I really like yoghurt, especially the yoghurt I make from the goat's milk I can get here.

What did I have for lunch today? Just something simple. I cooked a simple pilaf with basmati rice and lambbroth I had unthawed. Warmed the yoghurt with the flour, added a few drops of lemon, lots of dill, mint and parsley. Mounded the rice in a small volcano, poured over the sauce and drizzled with a little melted butter - something borrowed from turkish cuisine. Oh yes, I garnished with pan toasted almonds and pinenuts (staples I always have on hand). Salad of cucumber, tomato and red onion. A glass of red wine, soothing music...

My tastebuds and I were in heaven over this simple fare. My husband frowned as he worked his way through his steak and potatoes, thankful for that and not what I was having - the thought of yoghurt makes HIM curdle!

Hey! The cook has to cook for 'her' sometimes, no?

Something Fishy - To Scale or Not To Scale

2006-05-07T00:37:00.000+02:00

Along the huge coastal areas of Spain, fish and seafood are the mainstay of any restaurant or home meal. This translates to one or the other or both for many a few times a week...and perhaps tapas of mussels, grilled squid or octopus in between. If you live along the northern coasts such as Galicia or the Basque region...it may be almost daily.

The Spanish are generally very casual about their fish. But whether the scales stay on or are scraped off always depends on how it will be prepared.

The question of the day, asked by an acquaintance was "Don't they always remove the scales? Back home in England they ALWAYS do". (And I always cringe a little when I hear the old 'back home...' part peppered in obligatorily, even by those who live here 15 years.)

To scale or not to scale...depends on whether it will be panfried, grilled, baked in a salt covering or if it will be your next stew.

Scales protect the tender fish from quick, but high direct heat such as grilling, even those iron grills for on top of the cooker (stove). Panfrying a fish with small scales, such as sole doesn't require scaling as they will literally disappear. Not so with a fish with larger scales such as a gilthead bream (dorada). They are also left on when baking the fish in salt - a particularly delicious way to prepare fish that does not leave the fish 'salty' at all but exceptionally moist.

Cooking fish in sauces or more liquid such as a stew, then yes - they are always removed.

But even with the scales mistakenly left on, if you understand HOW to eat a fish - deboning it as you go or filleting it first before serving on a warmed plate - the scales will come off with the skin, if you have been neat about it...

...but perhaps that is a subject for another tutorial (one day) on my site!

Breading the Cheese - Keeping It and the Chef Happy

2006-04-29T18:07:00.000+02:00

Today I received an inspiring message from L.M. with a logical question about frying the goat...er...cheese that is and keeping it and the chef happy.

Ever try to get experimental and fry any cheese without breading or battering it? I did. Once. So did L.M. - what a mess.

And that's what the breaded and egged part does besides offering the crunch - keeps the cheese contained and the chef happy. Ok. There's breading (that falls off and gets frustrating) and then there's breading - that stays put, where it is supposed to and do its job of protecting the cheese whilst letting it melt, just everso little.

So, how? Easy (as everything is once you know a few tricks, yes?). Let's do fried goat cheese.

Heat the oil hot enough to make a bread cube dance and sizzle happily around the pan (use enough oil to come about half way up the cheese).

1. Set out 2 deep plates (soup plates) and one small flat plate.

2. Nearest the frying pan is the deep plate with a generous amount of fresh, fine bread crumbs, next to that, the beaten egg, then furthest away is the small plate with a few spoons of flour (that's the secret tip part). Everything all in a row.

3. Pat the not too thick slice of goat cheese into the flour. Both sides and all around the edge. This step you only do once per cheese. The flour helps make the egg adhere better to whatever, in this case, the cheese. Or perhaps it just slows down the run of the egg.

4. Now you have to move quickly. Dip the cheese into the egg on both sides and a quick roll around the edges - then immediately into the bread crumbs - and repeat with the egg, then bread crumbs again. Doing this twice insures a nice crust. Just the way you want it. Don't think much about it - just do it, making sure any holes in the crust get an extra pat of bread crumbs. I only use three fingers for this.

5. Immediately into the hot oil, then do the next. There is no such thing as pre-breading cheese - just quick, quick one, then the other.

Depending on how compact the cheese is, how thick the slice and how hot the oil, it probably won't take more than 30-45 seconds for a beautiful, golden colour. Use two spatulas to turn. One to lift under it, the other to help hold it a split second while you turn it. Avoids splattering and is gentler and quicker. Drain on kitchen paper and serve immediately...usually on a bed of a perky looking salad such as rucula (rocket) or friseé (Belgian endive?). Here's a link to the recipe for the second photo: Fried Goat Cheese with Apple and Walnuts

Gorgeous and golden with the center JUST starting to ooze. Garanteed happy cheese. And chef!

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My menu today inspired by L.M.'s timely question:
Chervil and Chive Herb Soup
Fried Goat Cheese on Rucula with Sweet Sour Vinaigrette (apple/pear syrup, rice vinegar and nut oil - herbsalt/pepper)
Giant Prawns with Garlic and Basil Oil Dip

All done under 30 minutes. ;>D

Crown Roast - Picture Perfect

2006-04-09T22:04:00.000+02:00

Have you ever had a nice old fashioned crown of ribs roast? I hadn't, which is why I organized this year's Easter dinner at Can Roig - one of our gourmet restaurants out in Cap i Corp, just in view of the sea. I felt it was time I experience this classic roast.

The chef, Juan, schooled in one of the top schools in Barcelona liked the idea when I spoke to him some weeks ago. And just to be certain, I downloaded three photos - each a variation on the theme. I am sure he enjoyed doing something different and off his menu.

I find this photo stunning but it doesn't quite do justice to what is now very past tense.

"Unfortunately" explained the waiter, "we couldn't find a bigger lamb, so instead of filled with vegetables, we present it this way. We hope this is no problem?"Of course it wasn't.

The crown was resting on four good sized medallions taken from the leg cut and deboned. There was also wild asparagus and broccoli. The center bouquet is mint, rosemary and sage flowers...the white you see are the paper cuffs, hand made. Obviously, he did not have them on hand...because this concept of serving lamb is definitely not a Spanish thing to do. Definitely an exception, much appreciated though.

By the way, did I mention it was one of the most delicious meals we've had in a very long time? Need I say the lamb was tender and flavourful, the roast vegetables a delight? There was also a side bowl of superb classic brown sauce (oh thank goddess, we've been spared the obligatory English mint sauce!). Lemon sorbet with Cava (Spanish champagne) was the perfect closure to a very memorable meal.

Divine dining, we did. Very repeatable.