Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Zwiebelkuchen - Onion Savoury Tart or Keesh it Not

Although it is certainly warmer here in Spain than back in Germany, around the mid of September - for me - it is Autumn. And certain specialities come to mind and palate.

My special order of German wine came in with friends driving down from Germany - whose son-in-law is a wine dealer - oh lucky me! Looking at those lovely bottles of fabulous Rhein and Mosel wines...my palate decided lunch - a really traditional autumn/winter fare - Zwiebelkuchen.

Usually served with 'Federweisser' (Feather White) wine - a very young wine, still cloudy, it can be served with any medium dry white German wine.

What is the difference between a quiche and Zwiebelkuchen? A few split hairs and a good measure of regional pride. First there was Zwiebelkuchen...then came quiche. Yes.

Optically, the quiche is thicker, almost always baked in a deep, round pan and can be an end combination of many things held together by an egg/cream mass...and cheese often plays an important role.

Zwiebelkuchen...is lots of onion, eggs, cream (of some sort, sour, crème fraîche etc.), bacon or bits from a lightly smoked slab of pork belly and that is it. No herbs, seasoning often nutmeg and/or whole caraway seeds, salt-pepper. Nothing pretentious, no fluff or snobbery. Which reminds me, it is absolutely sacrelegious to use puff pastry. Please don't (wince).

The traditional base is a bread yeast dough although some swear by a baking powder raised one. I can tell you those cooks are not from the Pfalz or Rhein-Hessen region. And though smaller amounts can be baked in a round pan, it is more often baked on a deep sheet. However way you do it, please...it's not quiche. Call it rather - Onion Tart if 'ZTVEE-bell-koohjn is unpronouncable for you (that 'hj' is a bit like, hmmm, let me see - think hissing cat and it will be close).

Recipies vary as to a few eggs more or less, more cream or not or technique such as pouring over the egg mass on the onions or mixing them with the mass before pouring onto the dough. This part is personal preference.

What matters is the right wine, cooler weather and friends to share it all with!

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related article on Zee Keesh! or The Quiche and I where you will find more info.

Ravioli - Pumpkin and Walnut Pasta Pillows in Sage Butter

I get in the mood for certain foods and when the thought knaws on my palate long enough, then I simply must make them.

So it was yesterday with my 'very large' raviolis filled with a mix of pumpkin, onion and walnut - toasted and finely chopped of course. I had to make them. The sage leaves are crisped in the butter, just as it turns tan - then the cooked raviolis are 'turned' in the butter gently and served on warm plates. And these too, I will have up on the Recipe Collection.

I served these as a main course with steamed, fine green beans, tossed with a little butter. The first course was chicken broth with lots of parsley and a little meat...but it can just as well have been a salad. It just so happened that I had made the chicken stock the day before...to nurse my cold.

These can also be served as a first course...just one sitting in a lovely broth garnished with herbs such as chive or lightly sautéed spring onion diagonally sliced.

My mother loved them - especially the crispy sage leaves. They are delicious!